Nsu Quick 50 restoration : Reassembly

Reassembly was pretty much a reverse of dissassembly with a couple of remarks.

Firstly, I had to reduce the brim thickness of the sw arm bushes to 1mm each to allow the washers to be slipped in between bush and frame. This also gave a good swinging fit with no play and aligned nicely with the circlip.

Secondly although the parts book shows the rear mudguard as fitted with 4 15mm M6 bolts, only the top 2 are of this type. The lower 2 are self tapping hex screws fitting into captive nut plates.

Rear mudguard fastenings-hex self tapping lower mount on left, 15m.m6 on right.

I fitted a plain washer and spring washer under the top two and plain washers under the lower.

Remember to feed the rear light cable through the mudguard before fitting the mudguard itself.

The rear tyre was split and unusable so I fitted a new tyre and tube. I cleaned and re-lubed the chain before refitting the rear wheel and chain. Rear wheel chain tensioners adjusted easily. Pleased that the sprocket does accept the chaun monkey alignment indicator so wheel alignment and chain tension were sorted at the same time. I could then refit the chainguards. Very pleased that now I had knocked the dents out of the chainguard the 2 halves fitted perfectly around the sprocket and overlapped each other very neatly.

Coming together- moving on to exhaust and frame cladding

Remove the carb and rubber mount before fitting the frame cladding. I realised that the wire and cable runs originally on my bike may well be wrong- and engine cladding plates were missing. I found I could feed the handlebar wiring loom down inside the frame cladding to emerge in the groove above the motor. The wiring from the alternator could also be fed into this groove so that the connections are made inside and covered (eventually) by the engine cover plates. I'm still not sure I've routed the clutch able correctly but this will be obvious when I fit the engine cover plates...*

*In fact this proved to be correct - the clutch cable enters the top of the LH cover plate. The RH plate actually has a cut-out to allow the magneto wires to take this route.

Wiring exits base of frame cladding to make connections to magneto in central groove.

Wiring enters top of frame cladding- clutch cable stays free.

Connections hidden in groove, make sure all connections are insulated.

Exhaust and motor covers fitted

Note motor covers require 2 countersunk m6 machine screws, 15mm and 30mm.

Left cover, kick start and gearchange levers fitted.

Fitting kickstart and gearchange levers- note that the kickstart has 1 large spline that must be aligned with that on the stub shaft. Note the clutch cable entering via its cut-out in the motor cover.

Exhaust fitted- I did buy the correct ring nut from NSU.de. Note the magneto wiring entering motor cover through deficated cut-out at front right

Exhaust fitted- the chrome on this was largely protected by the grease and cleaned up well. Those areas which were too badly pitted were treated and resprayed with a mist of hammerite.

Detail exhaust end cap and brake cable.

The bike was now coming together at a pace but I remembered I had yet to finish the fuel tank which I had eventually had to strip to bare metal and sprayed white. I used fine line tape to mark out the grey areas and then masked off the rest begore spraying.